Iraq, a land well known for its conflict, unsteady political atmosphere, and invasion by superpowers, holds extremely significant to the Shiite population who ensure a pilgrimage to the holy cities of Karbalah and Najaf at least once in their lifetime. In a country where the value of life is close to nill, and bombings are a usual affair, one feels instant peace when visiting the shrines of the Prophets son-in law Ali, and Ali’s son Hussain.
Islam began in 600 AD. After the death of the prophet, Maulana Ali, undertook his journey to Najaf and settled there. Islam began spreading once again under his leadership, and Maulana Ali was seen as greatly powerful and influential. In the 7th century, the Kufa masjid was built in Najaf, it was from this mosque that Maulana Ali spread his sermons and led the daily namaaz. The mosque is historical for numerous reasons. the first being that it was in the qibla of this mosque, which is where the imam leads his prayers from, where Maulana Ali was killed. Ibn Muljim, belonging to the Kharijite clan, was amongst the many enemies of Islam. The spread and popularity of Maulana Ali, drove him into killing the Imam. It was in the month of Ramazan on the 19th day that Maulana Ali was attacked while in the midst of his fajr (morning) prayer. Ibn Muljam hid in the shadows of the mosque with a poisonous sword in his hands and as Maulana Ali bent down in sajdah to acquire blessings from Allah, Ibn Muljim hit the sword on his head, leading to Maulana Ali being fatally injured. He succumbed to his injuries on the 21st of Ramazan, and then began the start of the rise of his beloved son Hussain.
Another reason as to why the Kufa mosque is considered monumental is because it is believed that 1200 prophets have prayed here, including Abraham and Noah. One prayer in this mosque is worth a thousand prayers in one’s lifetime. The 11,000sqm of Kufa is embedded with history in every crevice, and a visit there is liberating.
The 52nd Da’i-al-Mutlaq of the Dawoodi Bohra community, Dr. Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin Saheb undertook the renovation of Kufa, which was completed in the year 2010. The mosque is grand, with two golden domes, and four minarets adorned with gold. The sehen (courtyard) of Kufa, is made up of marble tiles from Greece which ensure a cool surface even during the scorching heat of summer. The insides are adorned with 1400 lanterns, commemorating the 1400th year of Islam according to the lunar calendar. The qibla of the mosque where believers bow down and pray, has excerpts from the Quran written in diamonds and rubies. There engraved, are 12 ruby teardrops each having the words ‘Ali’ carved into them. Believers ensure they pray in this mosque at least twice, on their visit to Najaf.
In the heart of the old city lies the ‘heart’ of the Islamic world, Maulana Ali’s shrine. The Imam, was said to have been buried secretly as he did not want his enemies to know the place where he finally lay. It was the 6th Imam, Ja’far-as-sadiq who discovered Maulana Ali’s grave, and it is here that 120 million Shiites flock to attain spiritual blessings and do dua. The Dawoodi Bohra community is the singular community that does not believe in giving a face to any of the Imams and the Prophet, however, the Iraqi’s have a bunch of flags, pendants, and posters of a sketch of Maulana Ali outside the shrine. One has to pass four security check points before entering the shrine, where major frisking and checking is done.
The area of the shrine is magnificent, surrounded by four large walls adorned with blue, yellow, and white stones, each hand placed to form various designs. A clock tower with a golden dome, stands above the main entrance leading to the shrine. The shrine itself is glorious, made completely out of gold, it stands as a towering structure, in front of which one truly feels like they are standing in front of the son of God. On the pillars of the shrine, are designs made in ruby and diamond.
The shrine was first built by the Iranian ruler the Daylamite Fannakhosraw Azod ad Dowleh in 977 over the tomb of Ali. However it was destroyed by a fire, and was later rebuilt by Seljuk Malik Shah I in 1086. Recently it has been newly renovated by Syedna Mohammad Burhanuddin Saheb.
On entering the shrine, one witnesses the passion and devotion Maulana Ali has filled believers with. Shiite Muslims worldwide sit in numerous groups, each practicing their own form of prayer and matam (beating the chest in mourning). To see so many sects of Muslims, all gathering at one holy place for the same cause, is truly overwhelming.
To reach the walls of the grave, ironic as it may seem, feels like one has entered into a mini-war zone. Even though the men and the women are separated, one can get crushed in the midst of all the desperation to reach the wall. Whether one visits at 11pm or 4am, the crowd never seems to die down, hence proving the overwhelming power of Ali.
The grave, financed and built by Dr. Syedna Mohammad Burhanuddin Saheb, is magnificent in itself. The jaali of the grave is golden, while the door has words inscribed in diamonds and emeralds. The jaali has grape vines and deers carved into it, as it was said that Maulana Ali was very fond of both. The top of the grave has leaves with Ali written in them, surrounding the entire periphery. The area has a prayer room, with a complete crystal ceiling, where people sit for hours in peace and complete silence.
It is true that the shrine has received its share of battering. In 2004, a car bomb exploded outside the shrine killing a 100 people. The bombings seemed to be the work of Abu Musab al-Zarqawi, a militant from Jordan. It was in the same year that the Mahdi army ceased the area of the shrine and used their base for carrying out attacks against the government, Iraqi police, and the coalition forces. In the latest attack in the year 2006, a suicide bomber was responsible for the death of 45 people outside the shrine.
As a city, Najaf is well developed and progressing. However the charm of the old city, the markets, and the lanes leading to the shrine makes one aware of the history that took place on these very roads centuries ago. One feels a different sort of aura on these roads, which they are sure to keep within them even after they have left.
ZAHRA AMIRUDDIN (3742)
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